Geopolitics of the Black Sea-Caspian Region: Political and Economic Security in a Complex Geopolitical Environment.

Tbilisi, Georgia

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Both Sides of the Coin

So I have been showing a lot of the great things about Georgia, its beautiful mountains and rivers, and the amazing wine region. This weekend in Batumi was no different, the city sits on the Black Sea coast and its tourism and nightlife are booming. There are well kept gardens, boardwalks, and bike paths for the travelers from Turkey, Russia, and across Georgia. I was a little nervous our bus wasn't going to make it over the mountains...but it did! The beach on the Black Sea isn't the normal beach us Americans think of, its a pebble and stone beach so pretty uncomfortable to walk on, but the water was amazing!






The reason why we were in Batumi was for the Rumsfeld Foundation's Central Asian students reunion. The foundation brings students from Central Asian countries to the US to study for six months. We were able to listen to students from Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, and Georgia discuss their regions energy security, regional cooperation, and the every present Russian influence. It was interesting to hear the perspectives from people from the Central Asian countries because we had only heard from Georgians up to this point.  

What many people might not know about Georgia, is that it is still an occupied country. Two regions of the country, Abkhazia and South Ossetia declared independence with the help of Russian troops, and now both areas are secured by Russian peacekeeping forces. The borders are controlled, there is no movement of people between these lines, and if a cow crosses the border and a farmer goes to get it he can be detained for several days. These conflicts have disrupted the lives of many here, sending Ossetians who lived in Georgia back to South Ossetia, Georgians in Abkhazia back to Georgia and vice versa. Georgians from these regions now live in temporary internally displaced persons housing which you can see below. These communities are isolated and the civilians are pawns in a game of power and politics. Many people think Russia used the excuse of Abkhazia and South Ossetia to keep Georgia from becoming a member of NATO and integrating westward. Many IDP's cannot get permanent housing or integration now because if the Georgian government permanently settles them, it is as if they are declaring their territories of Abkhazia and South Ossetia as lost. 



One of the main things I see every day is that Georgia is a country in transition. I would be doing this country a disservice if I did not show the bad with the good I see. The remnants of the Soviet Union, the buildings time and towns have forgotten, the history in this part of the world that you can still see. Modernity and Tradition are starting to come together, sometimes co-existing and other times clashing. Georgia is working hard to integrate with Europe and the Western world to balance itself against a strong Russia in the North, the trick is to do it without forgetting the past. 








In Baku, Azerbaijan this week and then back to work in Tbilisi! 

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Grapes, Song, and Poetry

Besides all of the learning I have been doing inside the classroom at the Georgian Institute of Public Affairs, a fair amount of learning has also been accomplished outside of the classroom in Georgia. This past weekend we traveled to the Kakheti region of Georgia, near the border with Azerbaijan which is a large wine-making region within Georgia.






Wine is a part of Georgian culture. Recently they have found out that wine has been made within Georgia for over 8000 years, older than even Greek and Egyptian cultures. In battle during ancient times, Georgian soldiers would strap grapevines under their clothes so if they were killed in battle, grapes would grow where they had fallen. They also have a traditional, and unique, way of making wine here within huge clay pots. These pots are dug into the soil where the temperatures remain more stable and then sealed with the grapes inside so all of the fermentation takes place naturally. Georgia used to export a large portion of its wine through Russia, but after Russia stopped buying Georgian wine in 2008-2009 after the war the industry suffered a setback. If anyone wants to try some Georgian wine I highly recommend the Mukuzani and Saparavi!




I believe there is one important part of the culture I have neglected to share with you all as well, and that is of the Tamada. The Tamada is the autocratic ruler of the table. He gives the toasts, can appoint other toasters, and is also able to tell you when you may dance or sing. We have so far only had democratic Tamada's, but as we have had more Georgian supra's we learn more and more about the Tamada's powers. Within Georgian supra's there are many, many toasts. Toasts to love, friendship, memories, those we have lost, Georgia, the food...etc., etc., etc. As tradition dictates, after a toast is made, others can add to the toast but only within that topic and you must not drink until everyone at the table has had their say, those that do drink must put their glass down and not participate in that toast anymore. Even after the toast is finished, the topic of conversation is supposed to only be on what the toast's topic was.

We capped our first weekend out into broader Georgia off with a visit to the great walled city of Signaghi. The government is looking to make this small village a top tourist attraction, and it is certainly one of the most beautiful villages we have seen on this trip. The main city is built on top of a hill with villages spread out underneath it. In ancient times when invaders would come all of the villagers would come behind the wall. To this day it remains the one village in Georgia that has never been captured by an invading force.







Georgia has also been famous for its many poets and authors. We learned of one this past weekend, Shota Rustaveli, who wrote the Knight in Panther's Skin. I will end this blog with a quote from him: 


"“That which we give makes us richer, that which is hoarded is lost” 
― Shota Rustaveli, The Knight in the Panther's Skin, 12th Century Georgian Poet

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

We Cannot be Switzerland

Guarmarjoba from Tbilisi, Georgia!

I have finally settled in to a groove here after a little shaky start, jet lag and getting used to the diet. Most of the dishes here consist of bread, cheese, and meat so I can kiss dieting goodbye for the summer! We had an amazing, traditional Georgian Supra to welcome us to this country, of which you can see the destruction below. A Georgian Supra is a long, traditional dinner, with plates and plates of food piled on top of one another. I made the mistake of indulging too much too quickly and by the time the actual main course of shish-kabobs came around, I was too full to speak! 

Georgia is legendary for its hospitality, and judging by the amount of food we are supposed to be eating I can say this is true. Everyone here is incredibly keen to show you a good time, their country, and their culture. For example, Khinkali is eaten with your hands, not a knife and fork. (woops.)

We started class this week and the discussions have definitely been interesting. Within such a small region there are so many actors (nation states, energy companies, ethnic groups) that the multiple interests and goals converge or clash. For thousands of years Georgians, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Ossetians, Abkhazians, Ajaris, Dagestanis, etc., etc., etc., lived next door and near each other with seldom clashes. However, when outside forces drew imaginary lines delimiting new nation states into such an intermixed region, conflict became inevitable. Georgia especially faces many challenges: separatist regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia, invasion and war with Russia in 2008, a declining population, and a distrust in the peaceful transfer of power between presidents (the only way power has been transferred historically is by revolution). As a guest speaker said about the conflict and lack of control over Georgia's borders, "We cannot be Switzerland." Parliamentary elections are to be held in October, and a presidential election soon after that, and it will be interesting to see if democratic forces can prevail in Georgia. Whether it becomes a model democracy for those that have just gone through a revolution, or not. Saakashvili's term limits are up, but his stamp on Georgia has certainly been made. (If you can't read, it says "Brand New Georgia: Saakashvili rebuilds a country"). Will he give up power? 

Coming up this week are meetings with ISAF (NATO) and a visit to the US Fortress (sorry...Embassy) which should make for an interesting and revealing day! Then this weekend it is off to the Kakheti region of Georgia where most Georgian wine comes from! 

Monday, June 4, 2012

Georgia on My Mind

While some of my colleagues have already left for an adventure in Istanbul, I still have three days to contemplate my impending trip to Georgia and the surrounding region. While the last time I left this country I meticulously planned and packed accordingly, I find that this time around I am procrastinating and letting things play out as they come. Perhaps I am more comfortable with the prospect of leaving the country this time around, or it may be that I welcome the chance for some open-air adventure after my first year in grad school, with my nose stuck in a book, has come to an end.

What is absolutely true is I am looking forward to learning more about and experiencing a region that will be very important in the future. The Caucasus serves as a bridge between Asia and Europe, as well as Russia and Persia. It is a crossroads of Christianity and Islam, with a long history of conflict and cooperation between the multiple ethnic and religious groups. The discovery of oil and natural gas in the Caspian Sea and surrounding countries only adds to the importance of this region's development. This Summer is sure to bring a better understanding of the power politics in play throughout the region, but also a high respect for the people throughout the Caucasus who have only recently started to enjoy their independence. I am looking forward to many long dinners with my colleagues and new friends, Gaumarjos! (Cheers!)