Kazbegi

This past weekend we were finally able to get out of Tbilisi, and head up into the mountains of Georgia. Kazbegi and the major town, Stepansminda, are high in the Caucasus mountains, past the line between North and South Caucasus (So they are actually considered North Caucasus while most of Georgia is South Caucasus).

I wish I had a picture of the vehicle we took up into the mountains, it almost looked like it was pieced together from different cars. Picture a small nissan minivan, with a grill, huge 4x4 tires, and then raised. When we left we really had no idea what we were getting ourselves into...

On our way towards the mountains we stopped at a 17th century castle and church. The story goes that it belonged to a Duke who protected the surrounding areas, they actually left the region for the United States after the Soviets came to power, and the church is now a tourist attraction. It sits next to the Tbilisi reservoir, which actually has villages underneath it which was flooded during Soviet times in order to build the reservoir. Inside the church are frescoes from the 17th century which were painted over white (again, by the Soviets), you can see some of them, but it's too expensive to restore most of the church to it's original state. I found a couple friends while we were there, there were two dogs which followed us around on the grounds. When I bent down to take a picture one of the dogs kept giving me its paws. I know it was probably the dirtiest thing I've ever touched but how can you resist dogs!!!

About 1 hour outside of the city we started to come into the mountains. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking! Its no wonder people say the mountainous region are some of the most beautiful places in Georgia. 

After this is when it really got interesting. You start to climb up the mountain, doing switchbacks, with no guardrails, and on an unpaved road...as well as people are passing each other!! I was sitting in the middle of the van, so I was doing OK, but there would be moments when we driving along the edge that I had to literally move my body towards the mountainside because I was freaking out. Luckily, I had Kat next to me so when we did drive along the edge we literally held onto each other and shut our eyes while silently praying. There was definitely some jokes on our behalf in that van. (Sorry Dad, you would have never made it!) This view was definitely worth it though:

This wasn't even at the top of the mountains!!! After this viewpoint we got back into the car, and after a little traffic jam (below) we were able to make our way over into the North Caucasus and through to the Russian border. It's crazy, there are tiny villages up here with probably 20 families, if that! Completely isolated during the winter months, these roads aren't even passable during those times! The pics below are of us driving through Stepansminda to the Russian border. Look Mom! I can see Russia from here! No really...that giant rock wall is Russia...

After seeing Russia we went back to Stepansminda and had some khinkali for lunch. Khinkali is meat filled dumplings, and this region is supposed to have the best. I have to say, they were actually really good!! Now I can't eat them in Tbilisi because they aren't as good down here! 50 Khinkali later....we headed up to the 10th century monastery across from Mt. Kazbegi. Again, we gathered in the minivan and rode up the side of another mountain. You can see the monastery and Mt Kazbegi (the snow covered mountain behind it) in the background from afar, and then when we went up there. There was another dog up at the monastery with a group from the US Embassy, his name was Roscoe and he was probably the happiest dog I've ever seen. Makes me miss Nala! The final picture is of the "guardrail" up the mountain....Caution Tape?

It's amazing what mountain air can do. I came back much more refreshed and feeling better after this trip than I had in a while. As of right now we are still trying to book a final trip up to Svaneti, the northernmost area of Georgia. Accessible only by 8hr treacherous minivan or 2hrs in a 19 seater prop plane....wish me luck!

Free Media?

Ok, I have been neglecting my blog for the past week or so, but that is because I was actually sidelined from a lot of traveling due to the never-ending foot injury. The past couple weekends we stayed around Tbilisi, but I was not able to travel far or explore too much since I was trying to use my foot as little as possible. This weekend we head to Kazbegi, which is close to the Russian border and home to snow-capped mountains. After that we have one more trip we'd like to take which is to the region of Svaneti, one of the most beautiful places in Georgia. More to come on this next week!

I have decided to instead dedicate this blog to the work I have been doing the past few weeks for Transparency International. While the work is very interesting, especially in a transitioning country like Georgia with elections coming up, it is hard to incorporate yourself into an organization when you don't speak the language and don't have any connections which might pass along information to you. Despite this fact, I have been carving out a little niche for myself, investigating internet development and adoption in Georgia, and becoming the resident English language editor (you should see what Google Translate comes up with sometimes!). While working with TI Georgia I have been helping the Media team investigate and write reports on the development and adoption of the Internet within Georgia. With parliamentary elections coming up in Georgia in June, the media environment is being heavily scrutinized by the NGO community and international donors, and I have a front row seat! 

As most of you know, my catch phrase has become: "Access to Information." It's the phrase I harp on in papers, class, and now...at work. Georgia is an interesting place to study and investigate access to information, the country is transitioning and transforming. From a Soviet Republic with tightly controlled state information, to a democratic society with a free media. From a public that fears to express their own opinions and speak to journalists, to one where freedom of expression is a constitutionally protected right. However, you can see the struggles that Georgia has every day, especially when it comes to the media.

In most democratic societies the media plays an important role of engaging with an informing the public, but what do you do when the media is politically polarized? That is the case in Georgia. Most TV stations are seen as pro-government or pro-opposition. According to recent surveys, journalists are not trusted members of society, and although a free media is being cultivated, the government has tried many unique ways to restrict opposition media members. Certain opposition media stations cannot get interviews with parliament or government members, opposition media channels don't get cable broadcast licenses, and private cable providers refuse to carry  certain stations. There have been cases of pro-government journalists harassing opposition member journalists, the government has seized thousands of satellites from customs locations (the only way opposition channels can be seen now), and (after the passage of must-carry/must-offer laws in parliament which enacted a 60 day window before the election when all pro-government and opposition channels must be available) stores have now stopped selling satellite dishes at all so even if channels are broadcast people won't be able to get them!

The consequences of this polarized media environment are many. The media is not respected, journalists are not trusted, the public is misinformed (or not informed at all) and society as a whole suffers. One thinks of the US as a free media society, but when looking at the polarization of media over the past 10 -15 years (Fox News and MSNBC anyone?) you have to stop and think, are we really any better? And if we are going down that rabbit hole, what are the consequences for our society?

The Traveler and the Couch

And then there were six. Last week we said goodbye to a lot of people. All of the California students that were with us, along with one of our American cohorts. They traveled back to Istanbul and the US, while a small group of American students have stayed behind to start internships for the remainder of the Summer. I have been placed with Transparency International Georgia, and even in this first week I have learned a tremendous amount. Most likely I'll be doing my own research project on Internet Use and Freedom in a Transitioning Country. I think Georgia is a great country to study because they have had their revolution back in 2003, have been modernizing and democratizing their government systems, are looking to engage the Western world, and their path has been full of lessons which can be passed along to other young democracies within the world. Transparency International Georgia has been at the forefront of the NGO community in Georgia as well, exposing the media industry for its inclusiveness and the monopolistic control of one man over media advertising. It pushed for must carry/must offer laws during the pre-election period which just passed parliament, and it documents property rights of citizens within rural areas where government projects and construction companies have taken over lands worked by farmers for centuries. A strong NGO community is needed in these transitioning countries so apathy and a lack of action do not create a quick return to past behaviors.

Unfortunately for me and my klutzy self, I have been unable to attend any rallies, protests, or meetings as I have been confined to my couch for the past 3 days, without even a good story to tell you! I sprained/broke a toe on my left foot last week by kicking a chair in our new apartment before going to bed, so I had been compensating by putting more pressure on my right foot, until Friday when I woke up with a sore arch, and significantly more pain as the day progressed. I have been unable to put weight on the right foot for a few days now, and the doctor has confined me to "Bed Rest." Seriously. I have jumped off a 30ft trapeze swing into a river in Laos and survived, and just by the simple act of walking! I break my foot.

Luckily before disaster struck, I was able to see more of Tbilisi last weekend than I had during our classes. After returning from Baku we had more free time and we were able to go out exploring. Our first stop was to climb up to Narikala Fortress which overlooks the city. The fortress was first built in the 4th century and consists of two walled sections and the rebuilt St. Nicholas Church. Walking through the gate you realize just how thick the walls are that protected citizens of Tbilisi for centuries. You can walk along the top of the walls and look out over the entire sprawling city and river.

Further up the road is Kartlis Deda or Mother Georgia, a statue commissioned in the 1950's to commemorate Georgia's 1500th year. The statue is of a woman dressed in traditional Georgian attire. In one hand she holds a cup of wine to greet her friends and in the other hand she holds a sword, to greet her enemies.

After a day of exploring old Tbilisi we decided to relax in the sulfur baths in front of the mountain. I've never had a bath experience, but having your own private room, great black tea, and a sauna was amazing. 

The following day we explored the market which spans an entire park. The market holds everything from original paintings, old soviet relics, crystal dishes, tea sets, chandeliers, and jewelry. I hope this foot heels up and I am able to explore that again :) 

What's in a Name?

If I said "Azerbaijan" to you, what would be your first thought? "Azer what?" "Where is world is that?" "Muslim Country"...etc., etc., etc. I have to say, when I was first told we had the opportunity to visit Azerbaijan, I said yes! And then I went to look for a map. I knew it was a Muslim majority country, I knew it had been ruled by the Aliyev family for decades, and so I was skeptical, but I went...and I was blown away.

Although we did not see the countryside or outside of the Capital city of Baku, the country and its people surprised me! Walking along the streets at night you would think you were in Paris, Prague, or London. The city is beautiful, families are out late into the night with kids skating and riding their scooters next to the Caspian Sea. Women walk around in western wear, dresses and tank-stops, some wear headscarves and others don't. For a country that borders Iran, its secularism and western orientation is guarded intensely. Azerbaijan actually maintains very close ties to Israel and some Azerbaijanis consider it a part of Europe, and not the Middle East or Central Asia.

The Boulevard on the Caspian Sea provides a great respite for many families from the heat during the day. Baku is actually built on a desert and once you leave the city limits you encounter oil rigs and desert mountains. We had a chance to visit both while we were there. We saw the Sangachal terminal which pumps oil from the Caspian Sea through Georgia and Turkey to European nations. Azerbaijan is also developing Shah Deniz, a massive gas deposit below the Caspian in order to help European nations become less reliant on Russian gas. Some Eastern European countries are totally reliant on Russia, and when Russia decides to invoke a "price dispute" it will cut off gas to those nations, including during winter in January 2009 to Ukraine.

The sad part about the Caspian Sea is that after the Soviet Union collapse, there was about 2 million barrels of oil in the sea. It is completely polluted, and when you walk up to it, or go to the pier, there is a constant smell of gas and permanent oily sheen. But that doesn't take away from the history that is also in this country. Within the desert mountains were discovered stone etchings and paintings from 5,000 BC to 10,000 BC. Seeing this part of history, not just where our ancestors came from, but where humanity itself developed, was incredible.

The old walled city was also very beautiful, with its Maiden tower. Legend has it that a young woman threw herself off of the tower because she did not want to marry the suitor her parents chose. Although I am not sure if that's true or not, I think the story reminds the people of Azerbaijan of their secularism and their strong view on women's rights.

If you couldn't tell by all the pictures I am sharing on this blog, I LOVED this city!!!